We understand that as a retailer in a competitive market it's difficult to bring a balance between keeping your costs down and keeping your animals happy. We do, however, expect the best treatment for all animals, whether they're meant for pets or meant for food. Here we will strive to give you the best alternatives to the care habits that are so harmful for the small creatures you keep.
The difference between baby male and female rats and mice |
Sexing baby and adult ratsOne of the biggest problems Rat Rescues are encountering at this point is "accidental litters" that come about because assistants at pet shops "accidentally" gave a potential owner a male-female pair, instead of the same sex pair that was requested.
Telling the difference between a male and female rat is fairly simple, even in "pinkies" or "fuzzies" as is illustrated in the image to your left. Male rats "drop" their testes as early as 4 weeks of age. They can, however, suck their scrotum in when they feel threatened, so it's important to know the difference between two animals regardless. The general rule of thumb is that a female's anus and urethral opening are far closer to each other than a male's. |
Seperating male and female rats
I've heard from many pet shops that they believe or have been told that a female rat can only fall pregnant at the age of 3 or 4 months. This is an absolute fallacy!
Female rats can be impregnated as early as 4-5 weeks old. This means that a rat can become a parent at the age of 8 weeks! This can cause many complications during the pregnancy, resulting in small litters, small babies and may even stunt the growth of the mom. Not even to mention the fact that the birth could go horribly wrong, resulting in the death of mom and babies.
Therefore, it is imperative to keep your male and female rats in seperate cages from 4 weeks old. If you have a female with kittens you can keep the female kittens with their mom and seperate the boys from them at 4 weeks.
Female rats can be impregnated as early as 4-5 weeks old. This means that a rat can become a parent at the age of 8 weeks! This can cause many complications during the pregnancy, resulting in small litters, small babies and may even stunt the growth of the mom. Not even to mention the fact that the birth could go horribly wrong, resulting in the death of mom and babies.
Therefore, it is imperative to keep your male and female rats in seperate cages from 4 weeks old. If you have a female with kittens you can keep the female kittens with their mom and seperate the boys from them at 4 weeks.
Selling pet rats in same sex pairs
Contrary to popular belief, rats are social animals and need company. They generally won't attack or kill each other when placed in same sex pairs, as hamsters will do.
Make sure to inform any potential pet owners of this, as it's a basic need for a rat to have a friend.
That said, discourage any potential owners from buying a male/female pair, as there are enough breeders out there to accommodate the demand for rats at the present moment and it would be cruel to subject a rat to breeding at the hands of an uneducated owner.
Make sure to inform any potential pet owners of this, as it's a basic need for a rat to have a friend.
That said, discourage any potential owners from buying a male/female pair, as there are enough breeders out there to accommodate the demand for rats at the present moment and it would be cruel to subject a rat to breeding at the hands of an uneducated owner.
Food
Many pet shops still feed their rats and mice sunflower seed mixes, despite knowing how bad it really is for the animal (read "Food and Nutrition" under"Rat Info")
We know that the premixed rat mixes available are horrendously expensive so we recommend that you feed your animals a low protein (18% or less) dog food, such as Bobtail pellets, along with some puffed wheat, rolled oats and dry pasta. Rats also need fresh fruits and cooked vegetables. You can find out more about a good mix to make yourself on www.ratanooga.co.za
Always ensure that the animals have fresh food and water available.
We know that the premixed rat mixes available are horrendously expensive so we recommend that you feed your animals a low protein (18% or less) dog food, such as Bobtail pellets, along with some puffed wheat, rolled oats and dry pasta. Rats also need fresh fruits and cooked vegetables. You can find out more about a good mix to make yourself on www.ratanooga.co.za
Always ensure that the animals have fresh food and water available.
Bedding
Pine and Cedar wood shavings are INCREDIBLY bad for all rodents, including rats, mice, hamsters and rabbits. The toxins and acids released by this product attack cells within the respiratory tract and trachea, as well as increasing liver enzymes. PLEASE stay away from this product.
The cheapest alternative to wood shavings is to use Unprinted Newspaper which can be bought in large rolls. Recommend Corn Cob bedding to your clients. Polar fleece lining is also an acceptable alternative.
The cheapest alternative to wood shavings is to use Unprinted Newspaper which can be bought in large rolls. Recommend Corn Cob bedding to your clients. Polar fleece lining is also an acceptable alternative.
Overcrowded cages
Overcrowded cages is a major issue, causing animals to become aggressive towards people and each other.
Each adult animal needs at least 60cm squared of space, so make sure your cages are big enough to accomodate the amount of animals it contains.
Refrain from recommending hamster and mouse cages to customers. As stated above, rats need more space to run around in. Better alternatives are provided in the form of large bird cages or rabbit cages with a bar spacing of less than 2cm.
Each adult animal needs at least 60cm squared of space, so make sure your cages are big enough to accomodate the amount of animals it contains.
Refrain from recommending hamster and mouse cages to customers. As stated above, rats need more space to run around in. Better alternatives are provided in the form of large bird cages or rabbit cages with a bar spacing of less than 2cm.
Common health problems seen in pet shops.
The single most common problem most pet shop rats have are mite infestations. Sarcoptic mites can be very uncomfortable for any animal and you also don't want to run the risk of selling your clients a feeder animal that will infect their snake or reptile at home. So it's imperative that you treat this problem as soon as you notice it in your feeder colonies.
The best course of action is to treat your rats with a drop of Ivermectin on the back of the neck. Please note that if any of your rats or mice show signs of mites all the animals in your colony need to be treated. For symptoms, see "Skin Problems" under "Rat Info - Health Care".
Another big problem is secondary respiratory infections, indicated by the animal's sneezing and/or wheezing. This can be treated by obtaining Baytril or Doxycycline from your local vet and administering it via the animal's water supply. Respiratory infections that go untreated will often result in death!
If you receive an animal that looks sick and you are not capable or do not have the resources to provide it with the necessary veterinary care, please contact us to arrange for a rescue organization to assist the animal.
The best course of action is to treat your rats with a drop of Ivermectin on the back of the neck. Please note that if any of your rats or mice show signs of mites all the animals in your colony need to be treated. For symptoms, see "Skin Problems" under "Rat Info - Health Care".
Another big problem is secondary respiratory infections, indicated by the animal's sneezing and/or wheezing. This can be treated by obtaining Baytril or Doxycycline from your local vet and administering it via the animal's water supply. Respiratory infections that go untreated will often result in death!
If you receive an animal that looks sick and you are not capable or do not have the resources to provide it with the necessary veterinary care, please contact us to arrange for a rescue organization to assist the animal.